Songbirds lead to happiness: here's how to attract them

Project Feederwatch offers opportunity to track species in your garden

A garden full of birds is the happiness equivalent of more money in your pocket. Seriously.

A recent study conducted in Europe found that bird diversity leads to overall happiness. The authors of the study, sponsored by German Center for Integrative Biodiversity Research, calculated that being around 14 additional bird species provided as much satisfaction as earning an additional $150 a month (or $124 Euros). "Birds are well-suited as indicators of biological diversity, since they are among the most visible elements of the animate nature — particularly in urban areas," according to the study.*

These findings are not surprising. Some of my earliest memories of being outdoors includes feeding birds in our city garden. I've carried this tradition to my own home, where I now have an elaborate feeding station set up on one solitary pole. 

Keeping track of bird visitors in the winter

On the days when I log the number and types of birds that visit my bird feeders for Project FeederWatch, I love having the excuse to be at the window to count and see who visits. Project Feederwatch is a yearly citizen scientist project that spans November through April. In the early days of gardening on my property, I participated for three years in a row, but over time my schedule did not allow me to be home as much to log data for the following years. 

Thanks to COVID-19, our social obligations are nonexistent this year, and I'm rediscovering how much I enjoy taking the time to watch the bird feeders, even on my non-counting days. (On work breaks, I often head to the window to see who is visiting at the moment.)

Over the years I have added a total of six feeders to my bird feeder station in the back garden. I use a raccoon guard on the pole to keep both raccoons and squirrels away from the feeders.

Project FeederWatch is sponsored by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and Birds Canada, and does include an $18 sign up fee. You select two consecutive days that you plan to observe the birds, and keep track of the totals. I print mine out for each week and then enter the data into my online account when it is convenient. 

The data not only helps Cornell track the type of birds visiting (and if certain birds are sick, such as finches with eye disease), but the memberships allows me to run stats on the birds that visit the property (even drawing on past participation years if I choose), which I really like.  Within the past year, I've had special guests such as rose-breasted grosbeaks and eastern bluebirds stop by while they were passing through the area. 

Here's a sampling of the season so far and which birds have visited on my logging days (six weeks in):

Data I shared with Project FeederWatch is searchable through the online database.

This year I chose Sunday and Monday as my logging days. The timing is flexible (I'm asked how long I watched over the two days and whether it was in the morning or afternoon). My husband has even started to notice the different variety of birds that visit our feeders. When logging data, I could the total number of species I see at one time on my property, whether they be at the feeders, on the ground beneath the feeders, at the heated birdbath, or hanging out in the trees, shrubs or on the fence. (This helps provide a more accurate count of how many individual birds stop by.)

So far this season, we have attracted as many as 18 different types of birds on my logging days. (Remember the study mentioned earlier said happiness was tied to at least 14?) These counts do not include the juvenile Cooper's Hawk that visited the garden or the pair of eastern bluebirds who like to visit the heated birdbath during the week, but now that I am in the habit of looking out the window I still get to experience what is hanging around outside.

A chickadee enjoys the heated birdbath in late November.

Tips for attracting birds to your property

Over the years, I have found that the following offerings attract my success rate for attracting birds.

• Provide evergreen cover within flying distance from the feeders. The sparrows and finches especially seem to enjoy hanging out in the 'Green Giant' arborvitae while they wait for a turn. (Each year the shrubs grow larger along my property line.)
• Offer fresh water with a heated birdbath. This is especially important when the temperatures dip below freezing and water is difficult to find. Make sure to keep the water fresh and the bird bath clean.
• Offer a variety of feeders. Different birds eat seed and suet in different ways, so over the years I have added more feeders to my station. I now offer two suet feeders that provide "tail support" for woodpeckers when they are feeding, two suet cages, a hopper feeder (looks like a little house) which the larger birds such as cardinals like to use, and a seed tube that the smaller birds (like finches) like to use. 
• Use a squirrel or raccoon baffler on the bird feeder pole to keep both out of your food.
• Store seed and suet in metal trash cans. I put bricks on top to help keep the squirrels out. I learned the hard way the first year as a homeowner that leaving bags of seed out in the garage only made the mice happy.
• Different seed attracts different birds, so offering a mixture helps to make everyone happy. If you do not want a lot of seed shells on the ground under the feeder, you can purchase "no mess" or "hulled" seed instead.
• Add UV reflecting decals to windows to help prevent bird strikes. 

By the way, Project FeederWatch runs through April, so there is still time to sign up for this great citizen science project. 

Two house sparrows take a dip in the heated birdbath on a December morning,

* German Centre for Integrative Biodiversity Research (iDiv) Halle-Jena-Leipzig. "Biological diversity evokes happiness: More bird species in their vicinity increase life satisfaction of Europeans as much as higher income." ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 4 December 2020. <www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/12/201204110246.htm>.

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Quick tips for potting up amaryllis bulbs

Potting up amaryllis bulbs for indoor blooms can brighten up a room in the cold season. In the video below I share the tips for planting up these large flowering bulbs, but here are some quick tips to get you started:

• Make sure the bulb you are purchasing is firm, not soft.
• Use a sturdy, heavy pot to plant your bulb in. Plants can get top heavy, so this helps prevent them from tipping over.
• Leave the "shoulders" of your bulb exposed when planting. 
• Give a little bit of water and set in a warm spot to get growing. 

You can also watch the video tutorial below.

Featured amaryllis in this post: 'Temptation'

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Plant follow up: 'Gatsby Moon' oakleaf hydrangea

'Gatsby Moon' oakleaf hydrangea in bloom (June 19) in the front garden.

Gardeners often have a variety of sizes to choose from when purchasing perennial shrubs for the garden. Is it best to start small, or go for one closer to full size?

Through an experiment with Proven Winners, we discovered that smaller versions catch up fairly quickly. 

The sample plants arrived in July 2018 from Proven Winners. 

The background

Two years ago, two oakleaf hydrangeas arrived at my door for testing and growing in my garden (see photo above). One was in a quart container, one was in a gallon. Both were 'Gatsby Moon' oakleaf hydrangeas, courtesy of Proven Winners. 

I provided an update last summer on how the two grew in the front garden. I was surprised by how they equaled out in size by the end of the growing season. Throughout the 2019 growing season, the plants focused on growing roots, more leaves, and getting situated in the garden — which meant no blooms. (The plants flower on "old wood.")

The 2020 report

My fingers were crossed that this would be the year for flowers. The promotional photos were so appealing that I eagerly awaited for the show to begin in my garden. 

They did not disappoint. If anything, the oakleaf hydrangeas went overboard. 

They were covered in so many blooms, beginning in mid-June and continuing through July as the flowers, starting as a light green, continued to open until they were creamy white. The branches were dripping with large panicles. (After a heavy rainstorm, I had to add some support to both plants to keep the flowers from touching the ground.) As the flowers aged, they returned to a green hue.

Here's how the flowers progressed:

The plants begin to bloom in June. (Photo taken on June 11.)

The flowers continue to open and turn a creamy shade of white (June 19).

June 24 for a photoshoot. 

Reaching peak bloom on July 3.

The flowers turn green as they age (July 11).

I left the flowers on the plant and pruned them off when they turned paper thin and brown in mid-fall. Now into November, the leaves are putting out a final show with their colorful wine-red leaves. 

Fall colors on 'Gatsby Moon' (Nov. 8).

The takeaways

In addition to the heavy bloomset, it was difficult to tell the plants apart this year. Which one originally arrived as a quart while the other was in a gallon? It didn't matter because they looked about the same. 

For instant impact, yes, larger plants make more of an immediate impact. But if you can only afford the smaller varieties, be patient. As 'Gatsby Moon' showed, a little patience goes a long way. 

Thank you to Proven Winners for supplying me with two sample oakleaf hydrangea varieties to test in my Zone 6b garden. 

Secrets caterpillars keep

This male monarch enjoys the tithonia bloom. But he has a dark secret.  

I've been raising monarch butterflies for at least four seasons now, and this year I learned something new.

It's a bit shocking.

I couldn't believe my eyes — but then friends who have raised monarchs confirmed that it can be true.

Caterpillars can be .... cannibalistic.

Such as my friend here.

Hannibal awaits his turn to join the other butterflies for the release party. (This photo was taken after his wings were dried. The post it note shows the day I found him in the garden as a wee little innocent caterpillar.)

When he was a young caterpillar lad, sharing his space with other baby caterpillars, he mowed down a slightly smaller caterpillar. I'll leave it at that. 

I found the shocking scene when I was performing my daily task of cleaning containers. Since they were so small, they were still living in a small plastic container with a lid. There was a milkweed leaf. It was still fairly fresh. But apparently, if you are a caterpillar, sometimes you could be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Like between the leaf and the other hungry caterpillar. (RIP little guy.)

I shouldn't have been shocked, but I was. I don't usually name the butterflies I release, but I do anthropomorphize them a little bit. So this shocking behavior earned this caterpillar his own container to grow in. And a name. 

He still grew into a beautiful butterfly, ready for his trip to Mexico. When it was time to release him outside, I let him join the others in the mesh enclosure when it was time to release. He then blended in (since I did not order monarch tags this year). All was forgiven. Perhaps he doesn't even remember that night of his milkweed-induced frenzy.

But if he did, hopefully he learned his lesson. 

'Micro Food Gardening' to debut in March 2021!

Over the last few months I have been working on a huge project, and I’m so excited to be able to share my news with you: I wrote a book!

"Micro Food Gardening: Project Plans and Plants for Growing Fruits and Veggies in Tiny Spaces" will be published in March 2021! This fun gardening book also features my photography, including the cover above, which offers a sneak peek of what’s in store.

This past growing season I set out to design and test 30 different projects that can be used to grow edibles in small spaces. Not only does the book provide step-by-step instructions, but it includes a blend of gardening and growing tips, too. There are projects that can be used to grow edibles in cool or warm seasons, indoors or outdoors.

I can’t wait until it shows up on bookshelves next spring. It’s available for preorder (!!) on Amazon and Quarto Know’s website, too. I can’t even begin to describe what I’m feeling (🤩) and I hope you share my excitement and happiness!

Growing tip: Check your garlic stash

If you grew garlic this year, now is a great time to check on how it is drying (or curing). A little background: After harvesting in mid-July, I tied together all of my plants and hung them behind my back door to dry. (Space is a premium in my house. Other places you can dry them include attics, garages — basically a cool and dry spot.)

I checked on my bulbs the other day, and found that the leaves and roots were sufficiently dried out. Today I trimmed the stems back, leaving about 3-4 inches (7.62-10.16 cm), and I trimmed the roots, too. I brushed off as much soil as I could without removing the papery skin around the bulb.

If you plan to use them in the kitchen, keep them in a cool, dark spot until you need them. (I store mine in a brown paper bag in a cabinet.)

You can also replant the largest cloves from this year’s harvest for next year's plants. In my area, I will plant garlic in mid-October.

PRO tip: Garlic is a great plant to surround your tulip bulbs with — it helps deter voles.

How to repot your houseplants in an afternoon

This Fishbone plant (Ctenanthe burle-marxii) has more space to grow now that it has been transplanted into a slightly larger pot. 

Approximately 4 minute read.

A great afternoon project is repotting houseplants that have outgrown their current pots. Houseplants benefit from having a little extra root space and fresh soil to grow in.

When upgrading your pot, look for a size that is a little larger than what the plant is in now. For example, if a plant is in a 4 inch pot (10.16 cm), look for a 5 inch pot (12.7 cm). Also, consider the soil your plant is currently growing in and how it might be influencing its performance.

How to get started

When I decide it is time to pot up my houseplants, I put a layer of newspaper out on the floor to catch the extra soil. The soil left behind either ends back up in the bag (if I spill new soil for example), or if it is mostly older soil from the plants, I add it to the compost pile in the garden.

Here's an example. I have a fishbone prayer plant (Ctenanthe burle-marxii) that for the last few months did not seem happy, no matter where I put it. The leaves were getting the crispy brown edges. Prayer plants like humidity and indirect light, so I tried a few weeks growing on the bathroom counter, but that didn't seem to change anything. Then I placed it in my north-facing window, and added a tray of small rocks with water underneath (to increase the humidity). The plant started to do a little bit better, but the soil seemed to dry out very quickly after watering. I did some research and learned that prayer plants like a little peat moss blended into their soil, so I decided an upgrade was in order.

There was not much root development on this prayer plant, despite being in its current pot for more than two years. I suspect the soil is the reason. (In this case, too much perlite.)

When it was time to transfer the plant into the new pot, I was surprised at what I found. The roots were not very overgrown, and there was a lot of perlite mixed in. (Perlite is great for adding aeration to the soil, especially for plants that want quick-draining soil.) I kept some of the original soil, and in the new pot, I blended new potting soil and a little peat moss together. I filled the new pot about halfway with the new soil and then placed my plant inside. I wanted to make sure there was a little room left at the top of the pot — about 1.5 inches (3.81 cm)— (the soil line) so that way when I watered the plant, the soil and water would not spill over the sides.

When I was happy with the plant's level in the pot, I filled in the side gaps with the new potting soil/peat mix combo, until I reached the soil line. Then I watered the plant to help the soil settle in and reduce the chances for air bubbles in the soil (air bubbles are not good for roots).

And then, since I was in the zone, I started to look around for any other houseplants that might need new digs.

So I repotted my new little spider plant, which doesn't mind being rootbound, but it was drying out so quickly that it needed some more space. I used the potting soil mix for this plant.

Spider plant being repotted.

I also repotted my peperomia, and my two peperomia cuttings that I made earlier this spring and had root successfully in the small pots. I also repotted my pilea — which was in soil that held a bit too much water for its liking. In this case, I worked in a bit of the perlite into the new potting soil to help with the drainage.

Pilea after repotting. 

If you have a question about the ideal soil for your houseplants, a quick google search usually yields the information you are seeking. There are also many great books on houseplants that will supply growing information on several popular plants.

Peperomia plant after being repotted.

What to grow now

Lettuce seeds can be sown every few weeks to ensure a continuous supply.

Approximately 2 minute read.


Mid-August brings more opportunities to start vegetables before the growing season comes to a close. In my growing zone, I have about two months left before I need to worry about the first frost. (Check your average last frost date here.)

Salad greens

You can sow lettuce seeds now, including heat-resistant varieties. Sow them in a spot where they are protected by the hot afternoon sun. In two to three more weeks, sow another batch of seeds, to keep a steady supply coming.

It's also the perfect time to sow kale seeds. You can direct sow these seeds outside, or start them indoors under grow lights. If growing indoors, plant them out when you have two sets of true leaves. Don't forget to harden the plants off by increasing the sun exposure over a few days. The plant's flavor will also benefit from the early frost. Before that happens, cover the kale with a floating row cover to protect it from cabbage whites, which use this plant and other brassicas as host plants to lay eggs. Make sure all sides are tucked down.

Calendula in bloom. 

Herbs

The basil and calendula seeds that I started earlier this month under grow lights indoors are ready to be transplanted into the ground or into larger growing containers. (If any of your annuals perished in the summer heat, you can replace them with these young seedlings.)

You can still direct sow basil and calendula outdoors, as well as dill (which I also direct sowed into existing veggie containers at the beginning of the month).

Basil seedlings in a container.

More cool-weather veggies

Want more variety? How about beet, carrot and pea seeds — all grow very quickly in the warm soil. Thin plants as they grow to give them enough room to grow.

You can wait til the end of the month to sow radish seeds, which will grow faster than beets and carrots.

For something different, try bok choy, which can be steamed or served in stir fry dishes. (Cover this with a floating row cover, too.)

Peas will grow in cool fall weather. 

More gardening tips

• Continue to pick peppers, eggplants and tomatoes as they ripen, to encourage the plants to set more fruit.
• Place your orders now for garlic bulbs. I usually plant my cloves in early October.

First monarch eggs of the season

A few days ago I shared the news that I had to cut back a good portion of my common milkweed patch thanks to ants that were using the undersides of leaves to farm aphids. I was worried about offering less hosts plants in the garden in late July, but knew I had to correct the situation.

But about two days ago, I discovered the first monarch eggs on various milkweed plants in the garden, including a plant in the area I had cut back.

Just goes to show that if you allow milkweed to grow in your garden — no matter how little — they will find it, and they will use it.

Keep planting milkweed, friends!

Cutting losses with my milkweed crop

Trimming back common milkweed to hopefully encourage new growth. 

Approximately 1.5 minute read.



I really try to let nature's checks and balances take care of pests in the garden. Earlier this year I released ladybugs to help with the aphids in the garden — even on the common milkweed — and it did work for a while.

Ultimately, it was undermined by the black ants. This week I had to cut back a significant portion of my common milkweed patch.

Despite my efforts to hose off the numerous aphids living under the leaves, the black ants have continued to farm the aphids for their honeydew. That's right. They protect the aphids like a food crop because they benefit from their ... byproduct.

Within the last two weeks, flies began to join in the party as well. When I would go to hose off the undersides of the leaves with water, there would be ants and flies protecting the leaves. The honeydew farm continued, and the lower leaves of the milkweed began to form a sooty mold. (No caterpillar is going to want to munch on that.)

I had been down this road before. A similar process happened last year, just not as badly and not as early in the season. Yesterday when I went to check on the plants again, I saw that wasps had joined the party. It seemed like the milkweed patch had turned into a death trap for any monarch eggs that might be deposited there.

Since I am currently without caterpillars to raise, I decided to cut back the milkweed before the problem became worse. It felt wrong to cut back the milkweed I tried to grow, but I am optimistic that the removal of the infected leaves will mitigate the ant and fly situation. (It's been two days and it does appear to have made some progress.)  I cut some stems to the ground and others halfway, depending on how "infested" they were.

Luckily, it's a good time to cut back milkweed — it should send out new growth that can be used to feed later generations of monarch caterpillars.

Now we wait.

Attention monarchs: Milkweed is standing by

The common milkweed growing in the front raised beds is ready for the monarch butterflies. So far, I've heard of sightings in the area — and I did have a "fly by" a few weeks back, even though the butterfly didn't linger.

In previous posts I shared how I started raising monarch butterflies as caterpillars and how to winter sow milkweed seeds (their host plant) in plastic containers.

This growing season, I'm trying to keep the milkweed in the garden healthy. Last year, I ran into an issue with larger black ants farming aphids on the common milkweed. I let it go unchecked and the leaves developed a sooty mold by the end of the season, which made it unusable for food.

This year I've been hosing off any aphids I see appearing with water (or squishing them while I am wearing gardening gloves), but the ants are still on guard. I'm sure they are planning a successful aphid farm for this season as well.

Opportunistic ants on the common milkweed.

It's also interesting to see the other insects that use the milkweed, such as the longhorn beetle (seen below) that also enjoys dining on milkweed.

The bees are also attracted to the flowers, which is all well and good. But, let's be honest. The one insect I'm holding out for is the monarch caterpillar.

Monarch caterpillars raised indoors from a previous season.

Have you spotted monarchs in your area yet? If yes, where are you located?

What's growing: Sample plants from Burpee

I'm growing many edibles in my garden this season, including some plant samples from Burpee. Of the nine plants I received, two were cabbages and one was a tomato. 

This is the first year that I've grown cabbages in my garden, and my main concern has been keeping the cabbage whites away from the plants. This insect feeds on many plants in the Brassica family — including cabbage. I've covered both 'Sweet Thang’ Cabbage and ‘Sweet Slaw’ Cabbage with a floating row cover for protection since I planted both in containers. 

Both arrived as smaller plants ready for planting in May (above). 'Sweet Thang' is a non-heading cabbage that has white veins with dark green leaves. It maxes out in size at 16 inches high and 12 inches wide. 'Sweet Slaw' offers a cone-shaped head that makes it ideal for slicing and shredding, growing 12 inches tall and up to 18 inches wide.

They have been growing quickly, and should reach harvest size at the 65 day mark. Both plants are growing alongside bush beans and marigolds.

'Cabbage Sweet Thang' after approximately two weeks after adding to this container planting.

'Cabbage Sweet Slaw' approximately two weeks after adding to this container planting. 

Another sample plant Burpee sent is the ‘BOOST Tasti-Wee’ tomato. I am growing this plant in a fabric grow bag in my driveway with borage as a companion plant. This cherry tomato is reported to be crack resistant with 40 percent more lycopene than other tomatoes. (Lycopene is an antioxidant that also gives tomatoes their red color.)

This indeterminate variety is reported to reach up to 72 inches tall with a 75 days to harvest window.  We've had some wonky temperatures over the last two months, but now that the weather has consistently brought hot days, this tomato has really started to take off. 

'Boost Tasti-Wee' tomato from Burpee (two weeks after planting in the fabric grow bag).

Here's how the tomato is looking in early July. The hot June days really helped move this plant along.

Green tomatoes are beginning to show on the tomato plant. 

Burpee sent me the above sample plants to trial in my Zone 6b garden. Thoughts and reviews are my own. 

Blooming now in the garden

These annuals and perennials have been blooming since June 20. Can you spot the non-flower?

Growing tomatoes in grow bags

An easy way to take advantage of sunny paved spots on your property is by growing edibles in fabric grow bags. 

I use a 25 gallon size bag to grow my indeterminate tomatoes. I use an organic potting soil to fill the bag (usually I need at least two bags of potting soil per bag).  To give the plant extra stability, I remove the lower leaves on the tomato stem and lay it lengthwise in the bag before planting. 

This small tomato plant is laid lengthwise in its grow bag. 

The lower leaves are removed before placing soil on top.

When adding the soil on top, I gently curve the top of the plant upwards and form a mound of soil around the plant (as seen below).

At this time, add an organic fertilizer (I'm using a 3-3-6 fertilizer) and your tomato cage as a final step. 

For more tips on growing edibles in paved areas, check out my post on growing edibles in driveways.

Gardening in the pandemic

Signage at Country Flower Farms, Middlefield, Connecticut.

In February I was getting ready for my first (ever) solo trip out of the country. I was headed to Mexico to see where (and how) the monarch butterflies overwinter. In all the excitement leading up to this trip, I decided to postpone ordering my seeds for the growing season.

In the past I've managed to order my seeds as late as March and still have a pretty good selection to choose from. But as daily life rapidly changed in March thanks to the COVID-19 virus that was spreading quickly in our country, the seeds that I had delayed ordering were now either out of stock or would take weeks longer to ship. Seed companies were selling record numbers of seed packets, and the surge in sales was attributed to COVID-19 and a rousing fear of food insecurity in the coming months.

Online seed companies were not the only garden industry affected by COVID-19. Connecticut's independent garden centers were also trying to adjust to what the new social distancing procedures would mean for their busiest season of the year. On March 23, Governor Ned Lamont issued a stay-at-home order for Connecticut residents, and allowed garden centers, nurseries and agriculture supply stores to remain open as essential businesses.

While two of my local independent garden centers remained open for customers to come in and shop, one decided to remain closed to the public. It wouldn't be long before the social distancing restrictions encouraged garden centers to consider a new way of shopping.

Three adventures: contactless and curbside

I have an autoimmune condition so I have been careful to limit my exposure to others during this time. I have not left the house much at all since we started to shelter in place and (thankfully) work from home in mid-March.

I continued to watch as updates were shared on various business social media accounts. To adapt to social distancing recommendations, two of the three garden centers — Natureworks and Country Flower Farms — created online stores with the option of contact-less pickup or delivery. Paul's and Sandy's Too continued to update customers through Facebook and Instagram and welcomed customers to phone in orders for curbside pickup.

My first foray into "social distance garden shopping" was with Country Flower Farms. I had so many questions. After checking their website, I called the store to find out if there were other plants available that were not listed in the online store yet. I asked how contactless pickup worked. I asked how much lead time was needed after the order was placed.

I decided to think about it some more overnight, and then placed an order on Sunday morning and paid online. Within an hour, they called to let me know it was ready for pickup on the benches outside.

I parked in front of the curbside pickup station. This photo was taken through my car windshield. 

Once I reached the store, I parked in front of the pickup area and saw my plants with my name attached. I put on my gloves, opened the door to my trunk, and then walked over to retrieve my plants. No one was outside. I loaded the plants with little fanfare, removed my gloves (and put them on the passenger side floor mat) and started my drive back home. I had my plants. A trip to the nursery, where I usually spent 30 minutes to an hour, was reduced to less than five minutes. But it was safe, easy, fast and pretty seamless.

The next weekend Natureworks had launched their online store. They had decided to close their store to the public for a few weeks as they set up a website to take orders online.  They set up three tents outside (alphabetically divided) where customers could collect their orders. To deal with lines, the parking lot had one way in and one way out. Customers were instructed to not leave their car until the person in the vehicle in front of you had loaded their order and were back in the car. (By this time, it was also recommended to start wearing masks while out in public.)

View from the car of the contactless pickup station at Natureworks, in Northford, Connecticut.

I drove to the appropriate tent, put the car in park, put on my face mask and gloves, and proceed to load my order into my car. While I was doing this, a car pulled in behind me and the driver patiently waited as I tried to load the plants faster. (I really had no reason to worry. She followed the guidance and stayed in her car.) Soon I was back in my car and on my way. It was safe. Easy. Seamless. And fast. Again, in less than five minutes I was back on my way home.

And of course, after watching Facebook videos of houseplants that had arrived at Paul's and Sandy's Too, I not only ordered a string of dolphins and a flowering maple for curbside pickup (how could I resist, really?), but soil and bean seeds as well. I phoned in my order, paid with my credit card, and was told I could head over as soon as I wanted. I donned my gloves and face mask and headed out.

Curbside pickup at Paul's and Sandy's Too in East Hampton, Connecticut.

I pulled into the appropriate loading area, parked, and opened the trunk. I called the store to let them know I had arrived. Within a minute, an employee (also wearing a fashionable face mask) came outside and placed part of my order in the trunk. Next I drove over to the soil loading area and the rest of my order was loaded into the trunk. Easy, seamless, fast ... and safe.

What's next

The stay-at-home order is expected to expire on May 20 in Connecticut, but the virus is not gone. Social distancing and face masks are here to stay for a while.

During this time, the people who work at Paul's and Sandy's Too, Natureworks and Country Flower Farms have been flexible and clever. Moving forward, I hope they continue to keep the curbside and contactless shopping options available for at-risk populations.

And to those who have made garden shopping possible in this time: thank you.

Thank you for all your efforts to keep your customers safe. Thank you for making plants available as a lovely distraction in this often frightening and uncertain time. My well-planned and easily executed weekend field trips were a break from the days that have run together, and has allowed me to continue to plan my garden for the upcoming growing season.

'Garden Alchemy' is a recipe for success

Take soil science and add a little seed starting, compost, fertilizer and garden tea, and you have the delightful new gardening book Garden Alchemy by Stephanie Rose. Whether you are a new or experienced gardener, a food or floral grower, Stephanie's book includes fun projects and breaks down gardening topics so they are easier to understand.

Garden Alchemy is available at a perfect time, as seed companies rush to fill orders as people turn to gardening in this new world we are navigating with COVID-19. I read this book at night to help me unwind from daily stressors, and I found myself dog-earring pages for possible project ideas to try in my garden this coming growing season.

Stephanie empowers the reader to experiment with ways to fix common garden problems with minimal effort — and showing how there are so many things the home gardener can do before deciding to buy a "problem-solving" product at the store.

Whether for soil or fertilizer, Stephanie identifies different "ingredients" and explains how to create various "recipes" for making your own mixes for your garden. She includes easy ways to test soil in her soil science section and she shares a number of seed-starting projects and tips in her propagation section, too.

This is a great book to add to your gardening shelf thanks to the tips and knowledge tucked inside.



Garden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More sells for $22.99 and is published by Cool Springs Press.


I received a promotional copy of this book from Quarto Knows. Opinions expressed above are my own.